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Set a large cast iron skillet on the stove over medium heat and let it warm while you mix the batter. Add enough bacon grease or oil to coat the bottom generously, about 2 to 3 tablespoons. You want a thin layer of hot fat so the hoecakes get crisp, lacy edges.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the cornmeal and a good pinch of salt if your bacon grease is not very salty. Make a little well in the center of the cornmeal.
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Crack the egg into the well, add the milk or water, and whisk everything together until you have a smooth, pourable batter. It should be a bit thinner than pancake batter, closer to heavy cream. If it seems too thick, add a splash more liquid; if it’s too thin, sprinkle in a spoonful more cornmeal.
Check your skillet by flicking in a tiny drop of batter. If it sizzles right away and starts to crisp at the edges, the pan is ready. If it just sits there, give the skillet another minute or two to heat up.
Working in batches so you don’t crowd the pan, pour small puddles of batter into the hot grease, about 2 to 3 tablespoons each. The batter should spread out into thin rounds with wispy, lacy edges.
Let the hoecakes cook without disturbing them until the edges turn deep golden and look crisp, and the tops are mostly set with little bubbles, about 2 to 3 minutes. Gently flip with a thin spatula and cook the other side until golden brown with darker spots, another 1 to 2 minutes.
Transfer the cooked hoecakes to a plate lined with a clean kitchen towel or paper towel. While they’re still hot, you can brush or dab a little extra bacon grease or butter over the tops for that pretty sheen.
Repeat with the remaining batter, adding a bit more grease or oil to the skillet as needed and letting it heat before adding more batter. Stack the hoecakes as you go so they stay warm and tender in the middle while the edges stay crisp.
Serve the hoecakes hot, stacked up straight from the skillet, with butter and your favorite sweetener or alongside eggs, beans, or greens.
Variations & Tips
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